Merda de Can, also known as Merde de chien, is a traditional specialty from Nice in the south of France. It is essentially a rustic, Niçoise-style gnocchi made with potatoes and Swiss chard. The cuisine of Nice has a strong Italian and Ligurian influence, which is easy to recognise in dishes such as these.
And then there is the name. Merda de can means, quite literally, “dog’s shit” in Niçois. The name refers to the rustic shape of the dumplings, which are traditionally made into short, irregular, elongated pieces. They are not given the familiar ridges of Italian gnocchi, and their appearance apparently inspired the rather cheeky name.
This is my vegan version of this lovely dish. I use tapioca starch to bind the dumplings and serve them with a simple, creamy cashew and lemon sauce. It is uncomplicated food made from very ordinary ingredients, but it is a recipe my whole family enjoys, which is always the best reason to make it again.
Ingredients
For the dumplings
- 650 g steamed starchy potatoes, very well drained
- 270 g fresh Swiss chard leaves
- 110 g tapioca starch
- 5 g garlic powder
- 1½ tsp salt, divided, optional
- 1 tsp avocado oil, optional
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- A little water
For the cashew sauce
- 1 garlic clove
- 1 handful of cashews
- Juice of ½ lemon
- ½ tsp salt
- Water, enough to slightly cover the cashews, plus more if needed
For cooking
- A large pot of water
- 1 tsp salt, optional
Method
Prepare the potatoes and Swiss chard
Steam the potatoes until tender, then drain them very well. This is important: the potatoes should be cooked and soft but not holding excess water, otherwise the dough will become too wet.
Meanwhile, put the Swiss chard into a medium pot with the avocado oil, 2 crushed garlic cloves, ½ tsp salt and a small splash of water. Cover and steam for about 15 minutes, checking regularly so that it does not catch or burn.
The chard should be completely cooked and very well drained. It should not be wet or watery.
While the chard is cooking, mash the potatoes very well until smooth.
Finely chop the cooked Swiss chard and add it to the mashed potatoes. Add the garlic powder, the remaining 1 tsp salt and the tapioca starch.
Mix everything very well. The mixture should come together into a thick, sticky dough.
Shape the dumplings
The dough will be quite sticky, so generously dust your work surface or a large cutting board with tapioca starch.
Divide the dough into four portions.
Take one portion and place it on the dusted surface. Sprinkle a little more tapioca starch over the dough and gently roll it into a long, round shape with around 4cm width. Press it slightly so that it becomes a little flatter, then cut it into pieces approximately 1 cm wide.
Roll each piece gently between your hands, using a little more tapioca starch if needed, to give it a slightly elongated, rounded shape. They do not need to be perfectly uniform — their rustic appearance is part of the charm.
Repeat with the remaining dough.
Cook the dumplings
Bring a large pot of water to a gentle boil. Add 1 tsp salt if desired.
Carefully add the dumplings and stir very gently to prevent them from sticking to the bottom or to each other.
They usually take about 2–3 minutes to cook. When they rise to the surface, they are ready. Remove them immediately.
Make the cashew sauce
Put the cashews, garlic, lemon juice, salt and enough water to slightly cover the cashews into a high-speed blender.
Blend until completely smooth and creamy. Add a little more water if necessary until you reach the consistency you prefer.
To serve
Serve the dumplings warm with the cashew sauce spooned over the top.
The result is soft, slightly chewy little potato and Swiss chard dumplings with a fresh, creamy, garlicky sauce. Simple, rustic and very satisfying.